Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
